How to buy a climbing helmet
Shopping for a climbing helmet can be overwhelming. Manufacturers throw a lot of jargon around, and it can be hard to tell if those acronyms are important safety features or marketing buzzwords. Here we answer some common questions when shopping for climbing helmets.
Can I use my bike helmet for climbing?
You should not use a bicycle helmet for climbing. Bicycle and climbing helmets are designed to withstand different kinds of impacts and are certified based on their ability to pass tests of those sport-specific impacts. You should use a climate helmet for climbing, but if you don’t have one and are unable to get one a bike helmet is better than nothing.
Can I use my ski/snowboard helmet for climbing?
You shouldn’t use a ski or snowboard helmet for climbing, for the same reason – they are designed for different types of impacts. If you want one helmet that works for both skiing and climbing, there are specialized helmets that are certified for both skiing and climbing (search for “ski mountaineering helmet”.
What is MIPS?
MIPS stands for multi-directional impact protection system and guards against rotational forces applied to the helmet/brain. A MIPS helmet has an extra liner that separates from the foam above it under a twisting force, meaning that less of the twisting force will be applied to the head and neck.
Does my climbing helmet need MIPS/Is MIPS worth it for a climbing helmet?
MIPS helmets are safer than their non-MIPS counterparts, full stop. But we can only speculate on how much safer they are, since there are no studies comparing people wearing MIPS and non-MIPS helmets in real-world climbing scenarios, for obvious reasons. So is the extra $40 or $50 for MIPS worth it? Since we’re talking about protecting your brain, I’d contend that it is – even if the type of impact is a low-probability event, this is an uncommon opportunity where we can increase safety just by spending some extra money. That said, I’d consider buying a helmet without MIPS if I couldn’t afford the MIPS option, or if I were only going to use the helmet for toprope climbing on non-traversing routes, where the likelihood of sustaining a rotational force to the head is less.
EPP vs EPS foam – does it matter?
EPP and EPS are two kinds of foam commonly found in helmets. EPS is more brittle and lighter than EPP, and tends to deform or crack after an impact, while EPS tends to rebound to its initial shape. Most helmets use both types of foam but super lightweight helmets like the Petzl Meteor use only EPS. EPS helmets are less likely to stand up to repeated impacts than an EPP/EPS helmet (though if your helmet is hit by rockfall you should probably replace it regardless of its construction to be safe).
From a safety perspective, you probably don’t need to worry much about which foam or foams your helmet is made out of. Assuming the helmet is intact, it will protect you against rockfall and collisions, in accordance with the UIAA helmet certification tests.
That said, my personal experience with EPS-only helmets is that they may not withstand rough treatment, such as jamming them in a pack with a bunch of other gear, which could cause the foam to fracture.
Do I need an expensive climbing helmet?
Probably not. At the end of the day, all climbing helmets are certified by the UIAA and have passed impact tests. The increased money goes towards one or more of three things: aesthetics, weight savings, and MIPS. If you’re on a budget, you can compromise on all of these things if necessary…though try to at least get a helmet with MIPS.